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After a traditional smørrebrød sandwich at Smagløs, one of Aarhuss oldest cafés, I visit the Church of Our Lady. The Danes generally eat supper early, around.30pm, so adjust your eating patterns accordingly if you want to mix with the locals. This is part of a former Dominican abbey that replaced St Nicholas, the citys first cathedral. These include workshops, a school, a chemist's, a baker's, a post office, the mayor's residence and a tannery. The 11th-century crypt is the major attraction here.

After a coffee in the quiet narrow lanes, I swap the history of emancipation for the terrors of subjugation at the Occupation Museum set in the former Gestapo headquarters. Travelling up to 62mph, the ferry from Aarhus to Ports in Zealand is the fastest in the world. The small courtyard is a real treat in summer (Mejlgade 35; ). Despite the citys coastal location, it has surprisingly few fish restaurants. Resist booking one of the cluster of hotels by the town hall and railway station. And wonderful works by Warhol and Cézanne before reaching the circular skywalk. This is not the only fine museum in the Latin Quarter, the oldest part of Aarhus. The port itself is sprawling and industrial. Instead take advantage of the numerous inexpensive brunch and lunch menus offered by many restaurants.

Den Gamle By museum. Inside the evocative and shabby rooms, the story of the Nazi occupation of Aarhus from 1940 to 1945 is well told. From the oldest of Aarhuss attractions it seems fitting to end my day at one of the newest, the brilliant ARoS museum, designed as a journey from hell to heaven. Brunch is a particular speciality (Graven 30; ). A delightful stroll down memory lane. THE best restaurants, brasserie Drudenfuss, an unbeatable location in the heart of the Latin Quarter. THE inside track, there is currently no tourist office in Aarhus.

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